By BRENT GARNETT
Sweat beaded on my brow as my eyes darted left and right, assessing the possibilities. Short of breath, I gasped and tried to control my laboured breathing. I felt my pulse pounding in my ears as I sucked back a gulp from my water bottle. My muscles burned and my knuckles whitened as I shifted my grip … on the thick Bicycle Buyer’s Guide Annual magazine.
It was then that the sickening realization struck home … I was a Bicycle Junkie.
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Yes, that's my Dad's Nash
Rambler in the driveway.
You do the math. |
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Seriously though, my love for bicycles goes way back. I spent most of my childhood and adolescence on one type of bicycle or another. First came the trainer bike with solid rubber tires and a steel seat. OUCH! Next came the chopper style bike with a banana seat, a small front wheel and a big, fat back tire. Eventually I graduated to a 10-speed with the classic drop handlebars.
While all of these bicycles granted me freedom and mobility, none were really equipped to handle the kind of terrain I loved to ride in the most: country lanes, single track hiking paths, and the gravel byways far from civilization. The invention of the mountain bike gave me the solution I needed.
The mountain bike is a relatively recent evolutionary step for the bicycle. Designed with wide tires, a sturdy frame, and a more upright seating position than road bicycles, it was built to withstand the rigours of the rugged outdoors like mud, roots, and even small stream crossings. It’s equally at home in the urban chaos of potholes, streetcar tracks, and sewer grates. Outside of its abilities to deal with the hazards of both on and off road travel, it’s just a comfortable bicycle to ride.
But the best thing about the mountain bike is that it makes bicycling accessible for just about anyone. It’s wonderful to see the delight and joy on the face of an adult rediscovering the simple pleasure of riding a bike.
Taking a mountain bike to the cottage is a natural. They were meant to be together. If you are thinking of buying one, consider the type of terrain you will be riding in, how much time you’ll be spending on the bike, and the type of riding you want to do (aggressive, casual touring, or a little of both). Once you know this, you’ll have a better understanding of what to look for in a mountain bike and how much money you’ll be willing to spend.
If you determine you will be spending a significant amount of time on the bicycle, do yourself a favour and go to a real bicycle shop to buy. Don’t expect a quality bicycle from a shop that sells more underwear than bikes. Bike shops often sell good, reasonably priced entry level bikes as well as the top-end stuff.
Most bicycle shops have no problem with you taking a test drive before you buy. Make sure you are comfortable with the bike. While you are there, remember to pick up the most important accessory you will ever buy: a helmet. The newest styles are well ventilated, no longer make you look like you’re wearing a bottlecap and, best of all, will keep you from becoming a vegetable or worse in the case of an accident.
I am now the proud owner of two mountain bikes. One is a no frills, basic workhorse which I use to pull my son’s trailer around. The other is a flashy beast with full suspension. This I use for adventures.
These fine machines share space with my touring road bicycle and a sleek, lightweight racing bike.
Not that this makes me some kind of bicycle nut or anything.
Now where did I leave that Buyer’s Guide?
Peddling Primer
Here is a description of the major differences in the anatomy of a mountain bike:
- Frames: Mountain bike frames now come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes from the classic double triangle frame made from tubular steel to wild organic shapes made from advanced composite materials. Alloys are also often used in frame construction and reduce the weight of the bike considerably while not compromising on strength. Typically, they are larger and stronger than road bike frames.
The recent inclusion of suspension has caused a radical change in the design of the frame. Hinged rear sections and split seat posts are now common.
- Suspension: Another recent evolutionary stage for the mountain bike is the incorporation of shock-absorbing technology for the front and/or rear wheels. While not really necessary unless you’re a serious downhill racer, shocks can reduce the discomfort of riding on rough surfaces. Unfortunately, they also increase the bicycle’s weight. More weight equals more effort to get it moving and stop it. The benefit of shocks must be weighed against this drawback. No pun intended.
- Gears: Most mountain bikes are equipped with three front chain rings and six to eight rear cogs. What makes bicycle manufacturers believe that 18 to 24 possible gear combinations is a desirable thing is a mystery to me. Maybe on an eighteen-wheel transport truck - but a bicycle?
However, don’t be frightened of this. I’ve seen people abandon all hope of ever purchasing a new bike when faced with the aspect of dealing with gears. Bicycle gears are not some kind of evil, high school pop math quiz. The point of gears is not to make you stress over calculating gear ratios. They’re simply there to help you maintain a steady speed while keeping your effort within the comfortable pedaling pace you set for yourself. These days, most gear changing controls on bicycles are very simple to operate and a little practice will make you comfortable with changing gears.
Simply put, the smaller the chain ring used in the front, the lower the gear (and the easier it is to pedal on climbs). The opposite is true for the rear cogs. The smaller the cog in the back used, the higher the gear (and the harder it is to pedal on climbs). The lowest gear is the smallest front chain ring combined with the largest rear cog. This is the gear you use for climbing REALLY steep hills. The highest gear is the largest front chain ring combined with the smallest rear cog. This is the gear you use for pedaling while racing down the other side of that REALLY steep hill.
- Brakes: Gone are the days of pedaling backwards to activate a coaster brake in the back wheel. Mountain bikes have brake levers that must be squeezed by hand to activate the brakes. The right hand lever controls the rear wheel brake and the left hand lever controls the front wheel brake. Never slam on the front brake unless you enjoy flying over the handlebars.
Most mountain bikes use small brake pads that rub against the wheel rims to slow and stop the bike. More expensive bikes can have disc brakes attached to the front and/or rear wheels. These disc brakes can be cable-activated or even hydraulic if you’re willing to fork out the dough for the good stuff. These disc brakes are very effective and, again, should be used carefully.
- Tires: How aggressive (bumpy) your tire tread should be is directly related to the kind of surfaces you expect to be riding on. If you will be typically riding on hard and smooth surfaces (pavement, rough pavement, gravel roads or walkways) then you will want to have a smoother tire, one with a solid raised center strip for constant road contact. Using knobby tires on pavement will make your teeth rattle.
If you will be riding on trails and dirt, you will want to have more of a tractor tire style tread pattern. These raised bumps will give you greater traction on the slippery stuff. Please be aware that these tires can also cause more trail damage than the smoother tires in heavy braking situations.
Remember to ride with respect for nature. And protect your head. It's the only one you've got!
